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A triangle of St. Louis music clubs transform on South Broadway
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Nestled near the southern edge of downtown St. Louis, by two auto shops and a Taco Bell, a nondescript stretch of Broadway has hosted live music in St. Louis for more than 40 years.The compact strip some call the blues triangle is the sort of walkable, organically formed nightlife district that city planners and tourism advocates in other cities often long to create. Ownership changes, a key retirement and the appearance of two new clubs — plus the fresh incarnation of a dearly departed one — have shaken things up in recent years.As the micro-neighborhood evolves, its shapers are working to grow it while keeping the low-fi character intact.“I had envisioned a spot like Beale Street in Memphis or Bourbon Street in New Orleans, where you go park and you can get out and go to three, four, five, six different clubs in one night. That was the mission,” said St. Louis nightlife pioneer Bud Joste one recent afternoon, seated in a coffee shop not far from the Soulard Ale House, where he got his start booking bands in the 1990’s.
Tristen Rouse
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St. Louis Public RadioFrom left: John Hartmann, Brother Jefferson Chapman and Tom Maloney play in an open jam session at BB’s Jazz, Blues and Soups. After closing for a few months early in the year, BB’s reopened for three nights a week. New General Manager Kevin Oscher is adding monthly showcases for reggae, Latin jazz and other styles. He hopes to be back to five nights weekly by February.
Tristen Rouse
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St. Louis Public RadioRoger Germann sings and plays guitar during an open jam session at BB’s Jazz, Blues and Soups in downtown St. Louis.
Joste was having a drink in the idiosyncratically named BB’s Jazz, Blues and Soups, founded in 1976, when he gazed out the window at the building across the street and decided to turn it into Beale on Broadway.He opened in September 2000, mainly booking blues and soul artists. The late Kim Massie, dubbed by fans the St. Louis Diva, kept a weekly residency there for 18 years. For much of that time, her performances were so popular that she added a second weekly appearance.Joste shocked his longtime patrons in early 2019 by closing the club with only a few days’ notice, when new owners bought him out. The space stayed dark until the renamed and renovated Billy’s on Broadway opened in June. It’s less of a sweaty, seven-nights-a-week club and more of a nice sports bar that also features a lot of live music. Yet on a recent Friday night, the blues soundtrack offered by Big George Brock, Jr. and band sounded quite familiar.
Tristen Rouse
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St. Louis Public RadioA man smokes a cigarette on Dec. 7 outside BB’s Jazz, Blues and Soups in downtown St. Louis. When Bob Burkhardt and Mark O’Shaughnessy opened the club in 1976, it sparked a new phase of St. Louis nightlife.
The micro-district to be named laterBB’s, Beale and the Broadway Oyster Bar a few doors down are three points forming the blues triangle — or Broadway triangle, or simply south Broadway. There’s no formal name for this blink-and-you’ll-miss-it cluster of independently owned music joints.The newest club-owners on the block suggest some fresh branding for the area: Music Quarter.Brothers Jeremy Binkley and Ryan Binkley extended the musical action from Broadway to 4th Street in 2017, opening the 200-person capacity Honky Tonk a few steps around the corner from Broadway Oyster Bar.As George Brock, Jr. and band played hard-charging Chicago blues for a largely gray-haired audience in Billy’s on Broadway, Off the Blacktop covered contemporary country favorites at the Honky Tonk. The blues DNA in Cody Johnson’s “Hardwood Honky Tonk Floors” was evident, but Off the Blacktop singer Tommy Patton’s mild twang — and the cowboy hats worn by a few patrons — suggested a country oasis.
Tristen Rouse
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St. Louis Public RadioRyan Binkley and Jeremy Binkley opened The Garage at Music Quarter in a disused space next door to the Honky Tonk. They credit city officials with making their stretch of 4th Street more amenable to pedestrians, but would like to see a more concerted effort to grow the tiny entertainment district south of Busch Stadium.
Superstar Garth Brooks had no trouble filling the Dome a few years ago, and other area venues provide an occasional home for nationally known country artists. But for musicians touring on a smaller scale, St. Louis was long short on this type of environment.“Nobody was investing consistently in providing live country music. When bands from Nashville were hitting the road and trying to play places, St. Louis was never a stop,” Ryan Binkley said.The Binkleys recently bumped up operations at the Honky Tonk from three nights a week to five. They also open for big Cardinals games and special events; last Mardis Gras, a line of revelers stretched down the sidewalk at midday, waiting to get in.Last fall the brothers converted a disused parking lot next door into another venue, the Garage at Music Center. It accommodates 500 people in its main room, plus another 200 on a spacious patio. The Binkleys book special events there and throw shows once a month.
Tristen Rouse
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St. Louis Public RadioChuck Loeb, left, plays the harmonica and Dave Heizer plays bass in an open jam session at BB’s Jazz, Blues and Soups in downtown St. Louis. The club has been a crossing ground for musicians of multiple generations — particularly artists steeped in the blues.
Tristen Rouse
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St. Louis Public RadioRegulars Marissa Groves, left, and Emily Loudermilk dance to Off the Blacktop, an ad hoc group of local country-leaning musicians that plays the Honky Tonk monthly.
They credit city officials for installing color-changing LED streetlights nearby, and adding traffic calming measures to a strip of 4th Street that became a popular spot for illegal street racing early in the coronavirus pandemic.More team effort, they say — among fellow business-owners, tourism advocates and city officials — could solidify the one-time blues triangle as an evolving business district.“If we can get our hands on more vacant buildings and grow the area, and name it, you can become a neighborhood — instead of five independent businesses basically pulling at things on their own,” Jeremy Binkley said.
Tristen Rouse
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St. Louis Public RadioPaul Niehaus IV plays during an open jam session at BB’s Jazz, Blues and Soups. The club’s new manager is adding monthly nights dedicated to reggae, Latin Jazz and other cousins on the musical family tree.
A Big Bang of St. Louis nightlifeWhen nightlife entrepreneurs Bob Burkhardt and Mark O’Shaughnessy opened BB’s Jazz, Blues and Soups, there was a small transient hotel upstairs. The owners made a habit of buying leftover vegetables from Soulard Market and cooking up big pots of soup that proved popular with hotel guests, recalled John May, who started tending bar there in 1980.“For $1.50, you got unlimited soup and good, crusty bread — but if you passed out at the bar, you’d have to start over and pay for your next refill,” May said.Wearing his signature, black beret in the upstairs space he helped convert into a second seating level in 2007, May sat amid portraits of the many blues greats who’ve played the room.
Tristen Rouse
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St. Louis Public RadioJohn May has worn many hats at BB’s Jazz, Blues and Soups since 1980. The managing partner recently stepped aside to let new management lead the storied club into its next era. The bassist played with many of the great bluesmen who graced the stage at BB’s, which ushered in a new phase of St. Louis nightlife in 1976.
Moving over the years from bartender to booker to managing partner, the bassist also learned from the greats first-hand. He played with luminaries including St. Louis blues patriarch Henry Townshend; Roosevelt Sykes, who recorded key tracks for Decca Records in the 1930’s; and Johnnie Johnson, Chuck Berry’s longtime piano player who later collaborated extensively with classic rock artists Keith Richards and Bob Weir.BB’s co-founder Burkhardt also opened Broadway Oyster Bar, which has seen several ownership changes since its 1978 founding — most recently when Steve Sullivan and Mark Goldenberg bought the place in 2019. Soul, funk and jam bands are in heavy rotation. It is well established as a spot where many of the city’s top musicians gather to play, join impromptu jam sessions or just listen.The cluster of three music venues in close proximity lends itself to unexpected musical juxtapositions, May said.“With no fail, you could count on going into the triangle and having live music on any night, and it’s going to be good,” he recalled. “And if this band is on break you can run down the street and see another band. Folks would go over to the Oyster Bar and bring back a dozen more people.”
Tristen Rouse
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St. Louis Public RadioPhil Mo, right, and Paul Niehaus IV play during an open jam session at BB’s Jazz, Blues and Soups in downtown St. Louis.
Changing tunes on BroadwayAfter pandemic restrictions shut down the region’s nightlife in 2020, BB’s reopened sooner than many venues. But capacity limits and other safety precautions, plus the widespread difficulty luring audiences back to live performances, has made it hard to make the numbers add up. BB’s closed its doors for a few months early in the year, then reopened as a three-nights-a-week operation.May recently announced his retirement.New general manager Kevin Ogle plans to follow in May’s footsteps for the most part, but is expanding the musical palette by adding monthly nights featuring Latin jazz, reggae and other cousins on the musical family tree.
Tristen Rouse
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St. Louis Public RadioMusical memorabilia lines the walls of BB’s Jazz, Blues and Soups. When the venue opened in 1976, there was a small transient hotel upstairs. Now the club’s second floor offers a tribute to its history amid another seating section. The walls are crammed with framed posters from European jazz festivals, portraits of the club’s greatest musical regulars and other bits of blues and jazz history.
He’s started booking shows for select Wednesdays and Thursdays in January, and hopes to ramp back up to five nights a week consistently by February.“This used to be a hot triangle right here, back in the ‘80s and ‘90s. We may never get back to that, but hopefully we’ll rebuild something similar to it,” Ogle said one recent evening at BB’s, pausing briefly near the bar while attending to complications resulting from a malfunctioning furnace.“We’re all neighbors, we’re all family, we’ve all been around a long time. So it just brings a close-knit aspect to this corner. We each have our own little niche and we make it work,” he added.The job never gets easier. The heating misfire forced Ogle to close for a weekend, canceling three shows. He planned to reopen in a few days.Economic challenges notwithstanding, the musical micro-neighborhood a few blocks south of Busch Stadium is no longer a triangle, and it’s not just blues. Yet much tradition endures. It’s not unlimited anymore, but soup is still on the menu.
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Laclede’s Landing is moving from nightlife hub to neighborhood
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Laclede’s Landing has cycled through many identities throughout the history of St. Louis. Now, some people involved with its redevelopment in recent years hope the landing’s next one will be as a residential neighborhood.The small district tucked directly north of the Gateway Arch National Park has quietly undergone a massive redevelopment with more than $75 million pouring into the rehabilitation of many of the historic buildings at the landing.“We are starting to feel that momentum, especially in the last really 60 days. Things have drastically changed around here,” said Ryan Koppy, broker and owner of Trading Post Properties and the director of commercial property for Advantes Group.Advantes alone shouldered the rehabilitation of six of the historic buildings, which now sport a mix of apartments and retail or office space, he said. Four of those buildings are completed, and of the 119 apartments available, about 90% are filled, Koppy said.“It just shows you what kind of demand we do have for the area,” he said. “We’re separated from downtown a little bit, and for the tenants, their local park where they’re walking their dogs, it’s a national park.”
Sophie Proe
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St. Louis Public RadioInterior of the Peper Lofts at Laclede’s Landing on Aug. 16
Another 40 apartments are set to come online next year along with some retail space, Koppy said. He added he’s noticed a wide range of people who are considering and moving into the newly refinished apartments.“It’s very mixed, surprisingly,” Koppy said. “We have a lot of young professionals, maybe on their second job out of [university], we have some empty nesters too.”Part of the newfound momentum comes from a new market, the Cobblestone, and coffee shop, Brew Tulum, opening recently and bringing more foot traffic to the area, said Brandyn Jones, executive director of the Laclede Landing Neighborhood Association. She added that more apartments are set to come online within the next few months.“We have a great riverfront area here and so there are plans in the works to activate those spaces, bring people in,” she said.That could be more daytime events, like a farmers market, music festivals (one of which is happening this weekend) or just bringing in food trucks to Katherine Ward Burg Garden, Jones said. It’s a departure from the identity the district held a few decades ago as a hub for nightlife and entertainment.“That’s part of what connects so many people to Laclede’s Landing,” Jones said. “It’s important to tell the story of where we’re evolving. It won’t be what it was in the same exact way, but it will still be fun, and it can be fun early morning, midday or late night.”It’s a view shared by Koppy.“It’s grown up, it’s a bit mature,” he said. “We’re not going to have 3 a.m. bars here anymore because we have residents here.”Koppy added that Advantes is joined by other developers working to rehabilitate buildings in the district.“We all work in unison,” he said. “If I get a call and [a client is] asking for something and maybe the square foot doesn’t really match up with what I have available, but I know it matches up over there, they’re getting a very warm welcome and introduction.”
Sophie Proe
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St. Louis Public RadioRyan Koppy looks out the window of Brew Tulum Specialty Coffee Experience on Aug. 16 at the Cobblestone on Laclede’s Landing in downtown St. Louis.
This push toward making Laclede’s Landing a residential neighborhood also comes alongside broader conversations about the future of downtown St. Louis more generally as it looks to move away from a dependence on office space. While the city as a whole continues to lose population, downtown added about 1,700 people between 2010 and 2020, according to U.S. Census data.“It’s been wonderful timing to have all that going on, that stress that you’re not just in downtown to work has been critical to part of this rejuvenation and energy down here,” Jones said. “Sometimes people forget Laclede’s Landing is part of downtown, really the original downtown.”And success in the small district could spread beyond its small confines and potentially serve as a model for success, Koppy added.“My idea is, if we could get all the great things of St. Louis coming in through here, we can eventually spread that,” he said. “We understand we can’t change the whole world, but we’ll just make the effort to try and change the world around us.”
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St. Louis barbecue festival Q in the Lou canceled
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The largest barbecue competition and tasting festival in St. Louis, Q in the Lou, has been canceled. The event was planned for Sept. 6-8, but organizers decided to cancel it due to poor ticket sales and insufficient corporate sponsorship.The traveling festival had low attendance in Denver last week, said Sean Hadley, a festival organizer.“We made the tough decision to cancel Q in the Lou,” said Hadley. “We’re seeing a lack of support … it’s just not there.”The traveling event first came to St. Louis in 2015 and drew hundreds of people to downtown St. Louis for barbecue, live music and a “major party.”“It shut down out of the blue … I’ve gone every year,” said Scott Thomas, local chef and food blogger. “It’s brilliant. You could take a tour of some really amazing barbecue restaurants and competition barbecue guys all in one place.”In a late July news conference, city officials touted Q in the Lou as a significant tourism draw and a boost for downtown revitalization.“Bringing a signature national festival back to downtown St. Louis … is making us stronger,” Greater St. Louis Inc. CEO Jason Hall said then.Less than a month later, ticket holders from every festival stop learned they’d be refunded. On Monday, organizers privatized the Q in the Lou website and deleted its social media accounts.Conner Kerrigan, a spokesperson for Mayor Tishaura Jones’ office, said city officials are disappointed the festival won’t be back this year.“St. Louis knows how to throw a festival … bringing people together to celebrate our culture is one of the things we do best as a city,” Kerrigan said in a statement. “Should Q in the Lou try to come back next year or any year after that, they’ll have the support of the Mayor Jones administration.”
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Alton’s Jacoby Arts Center likely to relocate permanently
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The Jacoby Arts Center, a staple of Alton for many in the Metro East community, will likely permanently move out of its downtown building at the end of September.Its departure and relocation from the historic building that the arts center has called home for the past 20 years has created a tense situation for not only the arts center’s supporters but also the local development company working to revitalize Alton’s downtown that owns the building.“It’s an unfortunate situation,” said Chad Brigham, the chief legal and administrative officer with AltonWorks, the real estate company owned by another prominent local attorney working to develop the town. “I wish there wasn’t misunderstanding and disappointment in the community. It’s difficult sometimes to clarify that.”When news of the likely departure spread in June via a letter from the Jacoby Arts Center to its supporters, an outcry on social media quickly followed. Some assumed it would be the end of the arts center.“There’s a lot of feelings right now that I think are more about the building itself than there are about the Jacoby Arts Center,” said Valerie Hoven, vice president and treasurer of the nonprofit arts center’s board.For supporters of the Jacoby, moving from the building and likely never returning will be a sad affair. Exactly what’s next for the arts center remains unclear. However, Jacoby board members believe this will not be the end of the organization. It will likely look different though.
Sophie Proe
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St. Louis Public RadioThe Jacoby Arts Center earlier this month in downtown Alton
Sophie Proe
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St. Louis Public RadioThe Alton-based Jacoby Arts Center features more than 75 St. Louis-area artists and their work.
The history of the buildingFirst dubbed the Madison County Arts Council, the nonprofit arts center renamed itself after the Jacoby family gave it the current building in 2004. AltonWorks founder John Simmons purchased the Jacoby Building in September 2018, according to property records from the county.Managing the large building, at 627 E. Broadway, became too expensive for the Jacoby Arts Center. In 2018, the organization approached Simmons to purchase it, said Dennis Scarborough, a past president of the board and a downtown business owner.“Of course, it sounded really, really good,” Scarborough said of Simmons’ purchase. “He took over the insurance, property taxes, all those kinds of things that were really, really getting into our budget, and he rented it to us at a fair price.”The two parties entered into a lease agreement initially for five years. Since then, Simmons has spent more than $1 million in upkeep, taxes, insurance and more on the building. The lease has been extended twice until the end of September this year.Over the six years, Jacoby paid $1,500 per month, which covered a portion of the utilities.“It’s been wonderfully generous of AltonWorks,” Hoven said.Because the building is aging and needs repairs, Brigham with AltonWorks and those connected to the arts center have long known the Jacoby Arts Center would need to relocate — at least temporarily.
Renovations on the Jacoby building will begin this fall. They’ll include modernizing the aging building, repairing the old elevator and putting in apartments on the second and third floors.
News of the likely departure and controversyRenovations will begin this fall. They’ll include modernizing the aging building, repairing the old elevator and putting in apartments on the second and third floors.In May, it became clear that a preliminary proposal for the arts center to return to the building after renovations finished in 2026 would not work for them, Hoven said.She estimates the first floor and basement of the Jacoby Arts Building span roughly 20,000 square feet.
Chad Brigham is a business and legal adviser for AltonWorks.
AltonWorks’ initial idea floated to the arts center would only provide 2,553 square feet, according to both Hoven and Brigham. While the board calculated the price for the new space to be at least triple the current payment, Brigham said there was never a specific price discussed.“No discussion in terms of actual rent price,” he said.AltonWorks didn’t make a specific rent offer because the organization doesn’t even know itself, Brigham said.In addition to cash from John Simmons, there will be loans, tax increment financing and state tax credits to cover the $20 million in building renovations. The entities financing the cost of renovations will also help determine the rent when the construction is complete, Brigham said.Regardless, the price required to return will be too much for the arts center to pay, Hoven said. Also, the organization would like to maintain the many programs it offers to the community — a rentable event space, a dark room and a clay studio, for example — in the future.“For us to really meet the needs of the community and be sustainable, we need a space where we can offer some of those programs — the artists’ shop, and other spaces that offer some kind of income as well — so that we can continue to give money back to the community,” she said.AltonWorks offered at least two other locations as possible alternatives from their vast stock of buildings along Broadway to house the arts center during the roughly 18 months of construction. Those alternatives came with similar deals requiring the Jacoby to cover only utilities, Brigham said.“We did put in a great deal of work behind the scenes in trying to find an interim solution,” Brigham said. “We wanted to find a place for them to go, where it was easy for them to continue programming, whether it’s 100% of it or some portion of it, that would work for them.”Initially, the arts center hoped to keep the basement during the renovations, Hoven said. When it became clear the preliminary offer to return was for much less space than the arts center anticipated, the letter to the community was sent.“The letter that came out was merely showing our surprise,” Hoven said. “Don’t misinterpret it as panic. Don’t misinterpret it as desperation.”
Sophie Proe
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St. Louis Public RadioA smorgasbord of radios are displayed at the Jacoby Arts Center in Alton.
The commentary on social media was passionate. Some critics of AltonWorks said the organization has good intentions but hasn’t executed those plans. Others said Jacoby hasn’t planned well enough for the future.For Brigham and the AltonWorks team, some of the criticism has been disappointing.“I thought that there were some decent solutions. Were they perfect? No, but they were very, I thought, very good solutions,” he said. “And the fact that it has come to the point that it is right now is a bit hurtful.”AltonWorks remains committed to the arts, Brigham said. John Simmons remains one the largest donors of the Jacoby Arts Center, Hoven and Brigham said.“I don’t think there’s ever been a question of our support of that organization — of our affinity for that organization,” Brigham said. “While some of the events were unfortunate, some of them were encouraging. The entire community rallied around the Jacoby Arts Center. That’s a good thing. It’s a good thing to have a love for the arts like that in a downtown community.”Sara McGibany, the executive director of Alton Main Street, an organization aimed at preserving the town, said AltonWorks should be commended for its vision. In many ways, her organization and AltonWorks share a vision for a thriving downtown.Even though AltonWorks hosts public meetings, McGibany believes the current situation lacks true community engagement.“We really think that if AltonWorks can get past some of the communication hurdles — and harness the community’s passion and shift to more of a bottom-up decision-making process that centers on community input — then we can turn around the growing sentiment of distrust that’s happening now,” McGibany said.Scarborough, the past board president and downtown business owner, echoed the praise for Simmons and his support of the Jacoby Arts Center. With the Jacoby likely moving, the future looks bleak, though.“It’s a community arts center that does a lot of good work,” Scarborough said. “The community is going to suffer, and they’re going to be missed by the community if they’re not there.”
Eric Lee
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St. Louis Public RadioShalanda Young, director of the federal Office of Management and Budget, talks to Illinois U.S. Rep. Nikki Budzinski, D-Springfield, during a tour of a construction project by AltonWorks last April in Alton. AltonWorks, who is building the LoveJoy Apartment Complex is receiving over $1 million in federal funding.
What does the future hold?AltonWorks will continue forging ahead with its ambitious plans to revitalize Alton. The organization hopes to conclude construction on the Wedge Innovation Center, which will have a restaurant, retail and co-working space, this fall. Lucas Row, a mix of apartments and retail space, is scheduled to be completed next spring.The remainder of the arts and innovation district, currently named after the Jacoby, will also move forward.“I believe in two years it’s going to be a much different place,” Brigham said of Alton. “It’s going to be thriving. It’s going to be new businesses, new tenants — and it’s going to be a nice proof of concept for what you can do in a small community like that.”The Jacoby board recently formed a strategic planning committee. Its task: figuring out what’s next for the arts center. The committee will reevaluate what space the Jacoby needs, what programs it wants to offer to the community and how they want to make that a reality.Keeping the arts center is essential for board members like Hoven. In her experience, it’s been a place where local aspiring artists get their start.“Art is one of the only ways to show your true authentic self,” Hoven said. “And there’s more people than I realized who do not get that opportunity every day.”The Jacoby will shut its doors to pack over the next month. Hoven said she’s optimistic the board will have concrete plans by the end of September when their lease officially ends.“Alton is such a fabulous and supportive community,” she said. “We still have lots of great options, so that the Jacoby Arts Center will continue to thrive in Alton and beyond.”
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