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Why Gordon Ramsey opened a fine-dining restaurant in St. Louis

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A celebrity chef known as much for his disses as his dishes has a new restaurant in an iconic downtown St. Louis dining room.Chef Gordon Ramsay, the British chef turned foul-mouthed television personality, has opened his newest “Ramsay’s Kitchen” location inside the Four Seasons Hotel.The restaurant replaces Cinder House, a Brazilian steakhouse by local chef Gerard Craft that closed early this year.The fifth installment of the concept, Ramsay’s Kitchen does not present the same menu as in his seven Michelin-starred restaurants in Europe, nor does it bear any blatant references to the reality TV shows like “Hell’s Kitchen” or “Next Level Chef” for which Ramsay is best known for in the U.S. Ramsay’s Kitchen sells itself as a “glimpse into Chef Gordon Ramsay’s culinary experiences across the globe.” Entrees on thelocal menu include a signature Beef Wellington, chickpea tikka masala, and in this case, a take on St. Louis-style ribs.
Theo R. Welling
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St. Louis Public RadioRamsay’s Kitchen by Gordon Ramsay is located in the Four Seasons Hotel in downtown St. Louis.
In town for the grand opening celebrations of the restaurant, Ramsay spoke with St. Louis Public Radio’s Abby Llorico.This interview has been edited for clarity and length.Abby Llorico: Chef, you are an internationally recognized global star with a globally recognized brand. Why add St. Louis to that portfolio?Gordon Ramsay: Yeah, that’s a pretty good question. I mean, first of all, I love what I do. I think that’s pretty obvious. And then I’ve just spent the last two decades building this incredible company to highlight talent. St. Louis was calling five years ago, we were set back, sadly due to COVID. And now we’ve got that grassroots effect: the devastation of so many restaurants closing, and that’s what you read about. The negativity of how they can sustain paying rent, rates, labor costs. And so when this opportunity came along, I’ve always been a big admirer from Chicago, downwards. What St. Louis stands for, the DNA – ribs, sauces, the farm-to-table, ethnic sort of multi-melting pot that goes on here. So to be part of this vibrant scene has been a bit of a long-term goal. And the timing is right. The position is amazing. We’re right on the Mississippi. Chefs don’t ever get the dream of having restaurants in this location often. So the stars are aligned.Llorico: And so it sounds like you were well aware that St. Louis considers itself a foodie town.Ramsay: Oh my god. Yeah, it’s been bustling. It’s almost like one of the sort of sleeping beauties in the culinary world because it’s in a league of its own. No one tampers with it. And it’s done in a unique way without being arrogant. And it’s a very confident style of cooking. Having dinner last night atVicia just highlighted the local talent. Chefs thrive on product, produce. Going through those seasonal aspects. It’s unspoiled, it’s untampered with. And so that was a prime example of where restaurants should be today. It was humble, it was delicious. It was handcrafted. And yeah, stunning. I mean, really stunning. So they’ve raised the bar. To be part of that scene? Honestly, that’s the ambition.Llorico: That being said, we have quite a scene, we have plenty of local options with people who are quite rooted here. So why should people, when they only have so many meals to eat, and frankly, so much money to spend on a meal out, be coming to your restaurant?Ramsay: Yeah, I think should ask the customers that question rather than ask me. But from my perspective, customers vote with their feet. We have a unique setting. We have an amazing menu. Incredibly local team, talented local team. The R&D and the kind of research that’s gone into the menu has been extraordinary. We tailor it to what’s happening locally. So it’s not just cut and paste, and we move Boston’s menu to St. Louis, we’re not that stupid. So this is a unique setting and a unique offering. And Ramsay’s Kitchen is around family. Family, whether it’s a ten top, six top, Sunday lunch, Saturday dinner, date night: There’s something for everybody here. And it’s been, it’s been a long time in the making. It just hasn’t been, you know, a label slap where you stick your name above the door and things happen. The most exciting thing for me is what’s going on in the kitchen and the dining room. When you see the talent, how hungry they are to learn and how keen they are to progress and elevate themselves. This restaurant is a platform for them.
Theo R. Welling
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St. Louis Public RadioFish and Chips — Crispy Atlantic Haddock, Triple-Cooked Chips, Gordon’s Tartar Sauce at Ramsay’s Kitchen by Gordon Ramsay, photographed last week.
Llorico: You mentioned that the idea of coming back, after the past several years we’ve had with the restaurant scene, it did have a major impact on St. Louis kitchens. Have you gotten to talk to some of the staffers here and some of the people working in the kitchen, even front of house, and how have you found this “Midwest nice” version of your restaurant?Ramsay: Yeah, that’s a good question. Midwest is super supportive. They are hardworking, and they’re focused. And they’re not carried away. They haven’t got the flashing lights of New York City or Miami, South Beach. It’s a very humble setting. When you start talking to the teams, and you see that kind of devastation that’s left on their life, on those amount of closures and what got shut down, you know, literally three years ago. It’s nice to be part of that grassroot moment. So we opened the reservations six weeks ago, and we took 30,000 bookings in our first 10 days. So you only get to hear that with stadiums and not in restaurants. So, it’s a double-edged sword. We have to maintain those standards and make sure that we pace ourselves and don’t get carried away. So there’s a great support team from us, in St. Louis, in a way that we will guide, support, help. And when we move with a new special, a new dish, a new menu, we move together. And that’s crucial for me.Llorico: You’ve noticed that this dining room is not just in a wonderful geographic location. It’s in an important geographic location, in the heart of downtown, we have the riverfront, we have the Arch – which by the way, what do you think about the Arch?,Ramsay: It’s iconic. I mean, really is. I’m lucky to have some incredible restaurants all across well, but for me, this is one of the most beautiful settings. And also it was built in 1963, and it was a symbol of repositioning St. Louis. And so to be given the opportunity here to have this restaurant? Ramsay’s Kitchen is a serious restaurant. We’re the gateway to this part of the area. Incredible.Llorico: And right now our downtown in St. Louis is not what it has been like so many downtowns, we are facing a bit of an uphill climb. And this location being part of that. Especially people who are really rooting for the continued success or the positive momentum of downtown St. Louis – why should they place trust in an outsider with such an important location in an important part of our city?Ramsay: Well, first of all, don’t consider ourselves as outsiders. We’re downtown. And if you think about the employment this business generates and what it does to families and how important that income is, it’s crucial. The restaurant prior to me, sadly, was dying, and so to regenerate and create 250 jobs, with further restaurants potentially, to be opened within the Gordon Ramsay group here. I’m excited. So this is not a separation. This is an amalgamation of relighting that fire and being part of that beacon coming back with that grassroots effect. So like I said, we’ve done enough of the negativity. The city’s been hit badly. And just like sadly, when the Rams left, we have to dust ourselves down and bounce back. And Ramsay’s Kitchen is part of that bouncing back. But if you see the excitement every morning – I spoke to the prep chefs yesterday, they arrived at 4 a.m., a dozen young kids, and they’re here to midday, and they’re going off to study at culinary college. It’s pretty significant. They’re locals, and they are putting every ounce of effort into this restaurant, and they’ll be recognized for that.
Theo R. Welling
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St. Louis Public RadioBeef Wellington with Potato Purée, Glazed Baby Root Vegetables, Red Wine Demi from Ramsay’s Kitchen by Gordon Ramsay, photographed last week.
Llorico: There are going to be some people who say, but it has a celebrity chef’s name on it, and they make up their mind about what that means. For some people, it’s, I don’t need to bother because I have seen him on TV and I know what to expect. There are going to be people who make the trip because they know who they believe they know who you are because of your television personality. What is going to be unexpected for both of those groups when they arrive and eat here?Ramsay: Customers are front and center. They vote with their feet. They don’t ring you and tell you they’re not coming back. They just don’t come back. What can they expect? A unique standard. An exciting offering of service with amazing food, a big focus on local produce, and unintimidating settings and something that is going to be a unique offering. With some fun. We do need fun. You know, our country’s heading towards another election, and there’s a lot of unsettlement. And so breaking bread on a neutral ground and having fun with friends and family is what Ramsay’s Kitchen is all about.
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Laclede’s Landing is moving from nightlife hub to neighborhood

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Laclede’s Landing has cycled through many identities throughout the history of St. Louis. Now, some people involved with its redevelopment in recent years hope the landing’s next one will be as a residential neighborhood.The small district tucked directly north of the Gateway Arch National Park has quietly undergone a massive redevelopment with more than $75 million pouring into the rehabilitation of many of the historic buildings at the landing.“We are starting to feel that momentum, especially in the last really 60 days. Things have drastically changed around here,” said Ryan Koppy, broker and owner of Trading Post Properties and the director of commercial property for Advantes Group.Advantes alone shouldered the rehabilitation of six of the historic buildings, which now sport a mix of apartments and retail or office space, he said. Four of those buildings are completed, and of the 119 apartments available, about 90% are filled, Koppy said.“It just shows you what kind of demand we do have for the area,” he said. “We’re separated from downtown a little bit, and for the tenants, their local park where they’re walking their dogs, it’s a national park.”
Sophie Proe
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St. Louis Public RadioInterior of the Peper Lofts at Laclede’s Landing on Aug. 16
Another 40 apartments are set to come online next year along with some retail space, Koppy said. He added he’s noticed a wide range of people who are considering and moving into the newly refinished apartments.“It’s very mixed, surprisingly,” Koppy said. “We have a lot of young professionals, maybe on their second job out of [university], we have some empty nesters too.”Part of the newfound momentum comes from a new market, the Cobblestone, and coffee shop, Brew Tulum, opening recently and bringing more foot traffic to the area, said Brandyn Jones, executive director of the Laclede Landing Neighborhood Association. She added that more apartments are set to come online within the next few months.“We have a great riverfront area here and so there are plans in the works to activate those spaces, bring people in,” she said.That could be more daytime events, like a farmers market, music festivals (one of which is happening this weekend) or just bringing in food trucks to Katherine Ward Burg Garden, Jones said. It’s a departure from the identity the district held a few decades ago as a hub for nightlife and entertainment.“That’s part of what connects so many people to Laclede’s Landing,” Jones said. “It’s important to tell the story of where we’re evolving. It won’t be what it was in the same exact way, but it will still be fun, and it can be fun early morning, midday or late night.”It’s a view shared by Koppy.“It’s grown up, it’s a bit mature,” he said. “We’re not going to have 3 a.m. bars here anymore because we have residents here.”Koppy added that Advantes is joined by other developers working to rehabilitate buildings in the district.“We all work in unison,” he said. “If I get a call and [a client is] asking for something and maybe the square foot doesn’t really match up with what I have available, but I know it matches up over there, they’re getting a very warm welcome and introduction.”
Sophie Proe
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St. Louis Public RadioRyan Koppy looks out the window of Brew Tulum Specialty Coffee Experience on Aug. 16 at the Cobblestone on Laclede’s Landing in downtown St. Louis.
This push toward making Laclede’s Landing a residential neighborhood also comes alongside broader conversations about the future of downtown St. Louis more generally as it looks to move away from a dependence on office space. While the city as a whole continues to lose population, downtown added about 1,700 people between 2010 and 2020, according to U.S. Census data.“It’s been wonderful timing to have all that going on, that stress that you’re not just in downtown to work has been critical to part of this rejuvenation and energy down here,” Jones said. “Sometimes people forget Laclede’s Landing is part of downtown, really the original downtown.”And success in the small district could spread beyond its small confines and potentially serve as a model for success, Koppy added.“My idea is, if we could get all the great things of St. Louis coming in through here, we can eventually spread that,” he said. “We understand we can’t change the whole world, but we’ll just make the effort to try and change the world around us.”
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St. Louis barbecue festival Q in the Lou canceled

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The largest barbecue competition and tasting festival in St. Louis, Q in the Lou, has been canceled. The event was planned for Sept. 6-8, but organizers decided to cancel it due to poor ticket sales and insufficient corporate sponsorship.The traveling festival had low attendance in Denver last week, said Sean Hadley, a festival organizer.“We made the tough decision to cancel Q in the Lou,” said Hadley. “We’re seeing a lack of support … it’s just not there.”The traveling event first came to St. Louis in 2015 and drew hundreds of people to downtown St. Louis for barbecue, live music and a “major party.”“It shut down out of the blue … I’ve gone every year,” said Scott Thomas, local chef and food blogger. “It’s brilliant. You could take a tour of some really amazing barbecue restaurants and competition barbecue guys all in one place.”In a late July news conference, city officials touted Q in the Lou as a significant tourism draw and a boost for downtown revitalization.“Bringing a signature national festival back to downtown St. Louis … is making us stronger,” Greater St. Louis Inc. CEO Jason Hall said then.Less than a month later, ticket holders from every festival stop learned they’d be refunded. On Monday, organizers privatized the Q in the Lou website and deleted its social media accounts.Conner Kerrigan, a spokesperson for Mayor Tishaura Jones’ office, said city officials are disappointed the festival won’t be back this year.“St. Louis knows how to throw a festival … bringing people together to celebrate our culture is one of the things we do best as a city,” Kerrigan said in a statement. “Should Q in the Lou try to come back next year or any year after that, they’ll have the support of the Mayor Jones administration.”
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Alton’s Jacoby Arts Center likely to relocate permanently

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The Jacoby Arts Center, a staple of Alton for many in the Metro East community, will likely permanently move out of its downtown building at the end of September.Its departure and relocation from the historic building that the arts center has called home for the past 20 years has created a tense situation for not only the arts center’s supporters but also the local development company working to revitalize Alton’s downtown that owns the building.“It’s an unfortunate situation,” said Chad Brigham, the chief legal and administrative officer with AltonWorks, the real estate company owned by another prominent local attorney working to develop the town. “I wish there wasn’t misunderstanding and disappointment in the community. It’s difficult sometimes to clarify that.”When news of the likely departure spread in June via a letter from the Jacoby Arts Center to its supporters, an outcry on social media quickly followed. Some assumed it would be the end of the arts center.“There’s a lot of feelings right now that I think are more about the building itself than there are about the Jacoby Arts Center,” said Valerie Hoven, vice president and treasurer of the nonprofit arts center’s board.For supporters of the Jacoby, moving from the building and likely never returning will be a sad affair. Exactly what’s next for the arts center remains unclear. However, Jacoby board members believe this will not be the end of the organization. It will likely look different though.
Sophie Proe
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St. Louis Public RadioThe Jacoby Arts Center earlier this month in downtown Alton
Sophie Proe
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St. Louis Public RadioThe Alton-based Jacoby Arts Center features more than 75 St. Louis-area artists and their work.
The history of the buildingFirst dubbed the Madison County Arts Council, the nonprofit arts center renamed itself after the Jacoby family gave it the current building in 2004. AltonWorks founder John Simmons purchased the Jacoby Building in September 2018, according to property records from the county.Managing the large building, at 627 E. Broadway, became too expensive for the Jacoby Arts Center. In 2018, the organization approached Simmons to purchase it, said Dennis Scarborough, a past president of the board and a downtown business owner.“Of course, it sounded really, really good,” Scarborough said of Simmons’ purchase. “He took over the insurance, property taxes, all those kinds of things that were really, really getting into our budget, and he rented it to us at a fair price.”The two parties entered into a lease agreement initially for five years. Since then, Simmons has spent more than $1 million in upkeep, taxes, insurance and more on the building. The lease has been extended twice until the end of September this year.Over the six years, Jacoby paid $1,500 per month, which covered a portion of the utilities.“It’s been wonderfully generous of AltonWorks,” Hoven said.Because the building is aging and needs repairs, Brigham with AltonWorks and those connected to the arts center have long known the Jacoby Arts Center would need to relocate — at least temporarily.
Renovations on the Jacoby building will begin this fall. They’ll include modernizing the aging building, repairing the old elevator and putting in apartments on the second and third floors.
News of the likely departure and controversyRenovations will begin this fall. They’ll include modernizing the aging building, repairing the old elevator and putting in apartments on the second and third floors.In May, it became clear that a preliminary proposal for the arts center to return to the building after renovations finished in 2026 would not work for them, Hoven said.She estimates the first floor and basement of the Jacoby Arts Building span roughly 20,000 square feet.
Chad Brigham is a business and legal adviser for AltonWorks.
AltonWorks’ initial idea floated to the arts center would only provide 2,553 square feet, according to both Hoven and Brigham. While the board calculated the price for the new space to be at least triple the current payment, Brigham said there was never a specific price discussed.“No discussion in terms of actual rent price,” he said.AltonWorks didn’t make a specific rent offer because the organization doesn’t even know itself, Brigham said.In addition to cash from John Simmons, there will be loans, tax increment financing and state tax credits to cover the $20 million in building renovations. The entities financing the cost of renovations will also help determine the rent when the construction is complete, Brigham said.Regardless, the price required to return will be too much for the arts center to pay, Hoven said. Also, the organization would like to maintain the many programs it offers to the community — a rentable event space, a dark room and a clay studio, for example — in the future.“For us to really meet the needs of the community and be sustainable, we need a space where we can offer some of those programs — the artists’ shop, and other spaces that offer some kind of income as well — so that we can continue to give money back to the community,” she said.AltonWorks offered at least two other locations as possible alternatives from their vast stock of buildings along Broadway to house the arts center during the roughly 18 months of construction. Those alternatives came with similar deals requiring the Jacoby to cover only utilities, Brigham said.“We did put in a great deal of work behind the scenes in trying to find an interim solution,” Brigham said. “We wanted to find a place for them to go, where it was easy for them to continue programming, whether it’s 100% of it or some portion of it, that would work for them.”Initially, the arts center hoped to keep the basement during the renovations, Hoven said. When it became clear the preliminary offer to return was for much less space than the arts center anticipated, the letter to the community was sent.“The letter that came out was merely showing our surprise,” Hoven said. “Don’t misinterpret it as panic. Don’t misinterpret it as desperation.”
Sophie Proe
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St. Louis Public RadioA smorgasbord of radios are displayed at the Jacoby Arts Center in Alton.
The commentary on social media was passionate. Some critics of AltonWorks said the organization has good intentions but hasn’t executed those plans. Others said Jacoby hasn’t planned well enough for the future.For Brigham and the AltonWorks team, some of the criticism has been disappointing.“I thought that there were some decent solutions. Were they perfect? No, but they were very, I thought, very good solutions,” he said. “And the fact that it has come to the point that it is right now is a bit hurtful.”AltonWorks remains committed to the arts, Brigham said. John Simmons remains one the largest donors of the Jacoby Arts Center, Hoven and Brigham said.“I don’t think there’s ever been a question of our support of that organization — of our affinity for that organization,” Brigham said. “While some of the events were unfortunate, some of them were encouraging. The entire community rallied around the Jacoby Arts Center. That’s a good thing. It’s a good thing to have a love for the arts like that in a downtown community.”Sara McGibany, the executive director of Alton Main Street, an organization aimed at preserving the town, said AltonWorks should be commended for its vision. In many ways, her organization and AltonWorks share a vision for a thriving downtown.Even though AltonWorks hosts public meetings, McGibany believes the current situation lacks true community engagement.“We really think that if AltonWorks can get past some of the communication hurdles — and harness the community’s passion and shift to more of a bottom-up decision-making process that centers on community input — then we can turn around the growing sentiment of distrust that’s happening now,” McGibany said.Scarborough, the past board president and downtown business owner, echoed the praise for Simmons and his support of the Jacoby Arts Center. With the Jacoby likely moving, the future looks bleak, though.“It’s a community arts center that does a lot of good work,” Scarborough said. “The community is going to suffer, and they’re going to be missed by the community if they’re not there.”
Eric Lee
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St. Louis Public RadioShalanda Young, director of the federal Office of Management and Budget, talks to Illinois U.S. Rep. Nikki Budzinski, D-Springfield, during a tour of a construction project by AltonWorks last April in Alton. AltonWorks, who is building the LoveJoy Apartment Complex is receiving over $1 million in federal funding.
What does the future hold?AltonWorks will continue forging ahead with its ambitious plans to revitalize Alton. The organization hopes to conclude construction on the Wedge Innovation Center, which will have a restaurant, retail and co-working space, this fall. Lucas Row, a mix of apartments and retail space, is scheduled to be completed next spring.The remainder of the arts and innovation district, currently named after the Jacoby, will also move forward.“I believe in two years it’s going to be a much different place,” Brigham said of Alton. “It’s going to be thriving. It’s going to be new businesses, new tenants — and it’s going to be a nice proof of concept for what you can do in a small community like that.”The Jacoby board recently formed a strategic planning committee. Its task: figuring out what’s next for the arts center. The committee will reevaluate what space the Jacoby needs, what programs it wants to offer to the community and how they want to make that a reality.Keeping the arts center is essential for board members like Hoven. In her experience, it’s been a place where local aspiring artists get their start.“Art is one of the only ways to show your true authentic self,” Hoven said. “And there’s more people than I realized who do not get that opportunity every day.”The Jacoby will shut its doors to pack over the next month. Hoven said she’s optimistic the board will have concrete plans by the end of September when their lease officially ends.“Alton is such a fabulous and supportive community,” she said. “We still have lots of great options, so that the Jacoby Arts Center will continue to thrive in Alton and beyond.”
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